34 | www.bensilver.com 6319: Canterbury The Handcrafted Oxford …in antique chestnut calfskin It’s thought that Irish farmers in the 19th century, working in the bogs, first came up with the idea of punching holes in their shoes so they wouldn’t become waterlogged and would dry better. This tradition eventually led to decoration, the ornamented shoe was born, and the original purpose for the punched holes is now forgotten. The classic lace-up wingtip is known by shoemakers as fullbrogued (brogue is the Gaelic word for shoe), as opposed to a plain shoe or a semi-brogue in which only the toe is decorated. The full-brogue is called a wingtip because the additional leather toe cap is designed like the shape of a winged bird. The perforations are done in a variety of fanciful patterns called medallions, and each maker has his own designs. In the 20th century, brogues began to be worn in England in country house settings with tweed suits. In the 1920s and 1930s the then popular Prince of Wales set a fashion for wearing full-brogued golf shoes in a variety of leathers. Today the smooth calf version is considered a slightly more individualistic alternative to the plain oxford for business dress. —G. Bruce Boyer noted fashion writer and editor Brogues TCBF DARK TAN BROGUED LEATHER BELT Opposite page: Our tasteful oxford features an imitation u-throat and wing cap and is cut from the finest antique chestnut calfskin. This style is part of Crockett & Jones top-of-the-line Handgrade Collection, which represents the art of shoe making at its highest level. Each pair is burnished by skilled craftsmen and features hand-stained, bark tanned single leather soles with channelled stitching. The Canterbury Oxford, 6319…$895. Above: Our unique dark tan leather belt, with traditional brogue pattern, is an excellent complement to all brogued shoes! Nickel buckle. 1¼" wide. Sizes 32–44. Dark tan brogued leather belt, TCBF…$185. THE CANTERBURY OXFORD
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