It’s thought that Irish farmers in the 19th century, working in the bogs, first came up with the idea of punching holes in their shoes so they wouldn’t become waterlogged and would dry better. This tradition eventually led to decoration, the ornamented shoe was born, and the original purpose for the punched holes is now forgotten. The classic lace-up wingtip is known by shoemakers as fullbrogued (brogue is the Gaelic word for shoe), as opposed to a plain shoe or a semi-brogue in which only the toe is decorated. The full-brogue is called a wingtip because the additional leather toe cap is designed like the shape of a winged bird. The perforations are done in a variety of fanciful patterns called medallions, and each maker has his own designs. In the 20th century, brogues began to be worn in England in country house settings with tweed suits. In the 1920s and 1930s the then popular Prince of Wales set a fashion for wearing full-brogued golf shoes in a variety of leathers. Today the smooth calf version is considered a slightly more individualistic alternative to the plain oxford for business dress. —G. Bruce Boyer noted fashion writer and editor Brogues TCBF Opposite page (bottom left): Crockett & Jones wingtip oxford in stone canvas and dark tan calf. In sizes 8.5–12. The Gerrard Spectator, 5608…$665. Opposite page (top): Our antique tan and white leather spectator oxfords are classic English broughams or wingtips, in the American parlance. Made exclusively for us by Crockett & Jones of England in the handgrade last and Goodyear welt, from the finest calfskin for glove-like comfort. Sizes 8.5–12. The Hampton Spectator, 9792…$865. Opposite page (right): The benchmade brogue oxford or “wingtip” from England’s Crockett & Jones is available in a classic antique tan calf with an oak bark sole. Like all Crockett & Jones shoes in our catalog, it is made with the finest tanned hides in an authentic Goodyear last, and available in sizes 8.5–12. The Clifford Wingtip, 9503…$875. Above: Our unique dark tan leather belt, with traditional brogue pattern, is an excellent complement to all brogued shoes! Nickel buckle. 1¼" wide. Sizes 32–44. Dark tan brogued leather belt, TCBF…$185. THE GERRARD SPECTATOR DARK TAN BROGUED LEATHER BELT THE HAMPTON SPECTATOR THE CLIFFORD WINGTIP 1-800-221-4671 | 19 5608: Gerrard Spectator 9792: Hampton Spectator 9503: Clifford Brogue Spectators …benchmade in England
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